Travel for Two: The Annapurna Sanctuary

Keep on Trekkin': The Annapurna Sanctuary

Kilometers Traveled: 15,518

Countries Visited: 4

Cities Visited: 10

Number of Stairs to get to Annapurna Base Camp: 9.2 gazillion

“Few places in this world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain passes. They will kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free, and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action.”

― John Muir

It is an act of sacrilege to visit Nepal and not go trekking. Nepal is home to eight of the worlds 10 tallest mountains including the legendary Mt. Everest. So after our retreat at the monastery we felt compelled to get up close and personal with at least one of these behemoths. We decided on doing a 10 day trek to the Annapurna Base Camp (colloquially referred to as ABC) which is one of the most popular treks for good reason. The Annapurna trails offers the most stunning and varied scenery in the region, from lush forests to blistering cold mountain passes. This region has 13 peaks over 7000m and is home to the 10th tallest mountain in the world. Annapurna I stands at 8091 meters (or 26,545 feet for those of you living in Liberia, Myanmar or the USA) and is also the deadliest mountain in the world with the highest number of fatalities for those who have tried to summit its peak.

We originally wanted to do the famous Annapurna Circuit which involves a 16-20 day trek going in a counter clockwise circle around the Annapurna range. However, our 30 day visa only allowed us to squeeze in a 10 day trek and the ABC seemed like comparable alternative. We also thought, "10 days? That sounds so much easier". Little did we know that this trek involved going up, then down, then up a few mountains a day with no switchbacks. Our knees are still reeling from the impact of an endless amount of uneven stairs. We also had to deal with some unseasonable wet weather for a typically dry month in Nepal. October is usually the best month to visit but we got a rash of bad weather due to the remnants of Cyclone Phailin from India.

But like finicky weather, all of these minor annoyances quickly dissipated once we got our first view of a 7000m mountain. I'm not a good enough writer to properly describe the awe, insignificance and elation you feel when you see one so close.

Machapuchare aka Fishtail mountain. The most recognizable mountain in the Annapurna range.

Day 1: Kathmandu to Pokhara

Elevations: 1400m to 900m

It took us 8 hours to go only 200 km in a tourist bus from Kathmandu to the lakeside city of Pokhara, where most trekkers begin their journey to the Annapurnas. We left during the Nepalese holiday of Dasain which meant that the narrow, guardrail-less roads carved high up in the mountains were devoid of any traffic.

Sadly, an unimpeded drive didn't equate to a safe ride for everyone that day. At one point we passed by a town where people were gathered around a broken side wall where a local bus crashed through and fell hundreds of meters to the raging river below. When we arrived at our destination we gave our bus driver an extra "thank you" for being a lot more careful than the other lunatics we saw on the road.

The cooler temperatures and rain made us both feel feel a little sick when we got to Pokhara. Janelle started to get a cold I had in Bhaktapur a couple days ago, so once we got our hotel we stayed in and enjoyed the free upgrade to the lakeside bungalow.

Maybe an amphibious bus would have worked better in this downpour? Where are you when we need you Duck Tours?

Rice fields and lush scenery helped keep us distracted what was happening on the road.

The cows here walk around with impunity. Must be nice to be sacred.

Awesome view of Phewa lake from our bungalow made slightly less awesome by the storm.

Day 2: Nayapul to Uleri

Elevations: 1070m to 2070m
5 hours

Bishnu, our guide, picked us up at 8 am and we drove 45 mins to the trail-head in Nayapul. This is where we received our first glimpse at the hoards of tour groups we would encounter along the trek. Since this was October we were expecting large crowds, in fact, meeting other travelers along the way is one best parts about this experience. However, the large organized tours were a huge nuisance. They would book up guesthouses days in advance (leaving those who were there out in the cold), clog up the trails with their army of porters and would hardly ever interact anyone outside of their clique. Sorry - just needed to get that off my chest.

Day one started off with a gradual ascent along the river with waterfalls and forest along the way. Things started off easy enough but in the last few kilometers we had a 1000m gain up some incredibly steep stairs. This was the also the point when it started to rain and when we regretted not buying one of the dirt cheap (Northe Face) rain jackets in Pokhara.

Our taxi driver had impeccable taste in music. This was the grooviest taxi ride ever.

Crossing a bridge into Biryathani, trying to get around the ants marching.

The recent rains made the river more powerful than usual.

Our first guesthouse stay in Uleri. Bishnu had us work a little harder today to get to the top of this hill (can you call these hills?) as opposed to staying in a town below.

The extra effort was worth it.

Day 3: Uleri to Gorepani

Elevation: 2070m to 2775m
5 hours

Yesterday's extra work to get to the top of this mountain paid off. Today we had a more casual down hill walk through a shaded Rhododendron forest with waterfalls and valleys. Janelle's cold made the hike up to Gorepani a lot more difficult for her than it was for Bishnu and I but she powered though and we made it to our next guesthouse before it started to rain again. We stayed in a guesthouse in upper Gorepani which had amazing views of Annapurna South - so we were told.

The blue roofs in the town below are from Uleri.

Bishnu, our guide.

Me, after I learned how to pronounce rhododendron. Thanks Janelle!

We made it to Gorepani! Wait, there's an "Upper" Gorepani?

Nepalis are big fans of spice. Sometimes for lunch, Bishnu would bring us a bowl of peppers almost as large as our meal.

Day 4: Poon Hill to Tadapani

Elevations: 3193m to 2710m
4 hours

We woke up at 4 am to catch the sunrise from the neighboring Poon Hill, which was almost 800 meters up (at 3193m) from our guesthouse and has great views of Annapurna South (7219m) and Annapurna I (8091m). We made a mad dash to the top to get around the crowd in the pitch black darkness which seemed to have worsened Janelle's condition once we got to the top. It was one of our clearer mornings and the views and colors from this vantage point were spectacular. The snow capped peaks glistened when they were hit with direct sunlight. It was amazing to believe that even at this high altitude these giants still stood more than twice as tall.

Afterwards, we headed back down to Gorepani then up and over another mountain followed by a steep descent down into a lush gorge then up another mountain to get to Tadapani. It was a roller coaster ride of emotions.

Annapurna South on the right and Hiunchuli on the left. Our iPhone photos do not them justice.

There were so many tourists on this hill that it was difficult to get a clear shot. I was even cussed out by an Italian woman for lingering too long for this shot. Worth it.

Janelle fought a cold, altitude sickness and morning grogginess to make it up here. What a trooper.

The view from the second mountain of the day. It was all down hill from here... until we got to the third mountain.

Some Tibetan prayer flags for good measure. Most of the locals in these parts of Nepal are Buddhist.

Day 5: Tadapani to Chhomrong

Elevations: 2710m to 2340m
4 hours

Last night Bishnu used his connections to get us the last room in Tadapani - there are only 4 guesthouses in this town and they were all booked up by large French and Chinese tour groups. Today involved a steep descent to cross the river and then a brisk climb up to Chhromrong, the largest town before we head to ABC. The mountains in this region were riddled with massive landslides. Bishnu told us that they usually occur during the monsoon season. Usually?

We had to get to the top of this mountain across the valley

All of the small towns in the mountains are supplied by caravans of either mules or porters.

Day 6: Chhomrong to Deurali

Elevation: 2340m to 3230m
7.75 hours

Today was our longest and most most grueling day. Thankfully Janelle was feeling better (but not 100%) so to gain some speed in trying to get to Duerali (since guesthouses were booking up quickly) we left a bag in Chhomrong and left as early as possible to get a jump on the crowds. The weather didn't help us out as it started to hail 30 mins before we reached Duerali. Nevertheless, the extra hustle paid off - we got the last room.

Janelle's porters.

View from lower Sinuwa - a small town across the valley from Chhromrong

Much needed respite from a steep descent and steep ascent to Sinuwa. Only 7 1/2 hours to go to Duerali. Bisnu didn't even break a sweat.

It was a gradually climb in the valley after Sinuwa through a Rhododendron forest, a bamboo forest and with indescribable beauty in all directions.

Some of the bridges here weren't up to code.

This picture doesn't capture the size of this massive waterfall across the valley.

Day 7: Deurali to ABC (then back to Deurali)

Elevation: 3230m to 4130m
8 hours

Bishnu and Janelle had the great idea of leaving all of our bags in Deurali and to head up to ABC early in the morning. By being completely unencumbered, we were able reach the base camp and come back to Duerali the same day to stay a second night. We didn't have to worry about getting a bed in the packed guesthouses up there which made for a carefree day. The ground was lightly dusted with snow from last night and we had the best weather yet which made for a beautiful early morning walk along the river and up to the base camp.

After passing the Machapuchare Base Camp we climbed up a icy small hill and then the full glory of the Annapurnas revealed themselves. The trail ends in a massive bowl surrounded by the mountains we have only been getting glimpses of in the past few days - With Annapurna South and Hiunchuli on the left, Machapuchare at our backs and the massive Annapurna I directly ahead of us. They felt close enough to reach out and touch with our hands. I had a hard time keeping my eyes on the trail and kept slipping on the icy rocks below. But the possibility of falling didn't stop me from looking, it was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen my life. I was so excited I even ignored my mild AMS symptoms which only caused us to take more breaks and gave us more time to soak it all in.

Morning snow in the higher elevations.

The approach was stunning. The forest gave way to tundra then to a snow covered valley where we were surrounded by mountains going up another 4000m.

Machapuchare Base Camp. I'm glad we didn't stay here last night, these buildings don't have much in the way of insulation.

Achievement unlocked - Top of the World

A view of Annapurna South from another direction. Just 3 days ago we were on the other side in Poon Hill.

ABC with Machapuchare in the background. We felt like staying here all day to play in the snow.

A memorial to three Korean climbers who perished trying to climb Annapurna I.

The mighty Annapurna I. The valley below is the former site of a massive glacier that has recently disappeared.

Day 8: Deuleri to Chhomrong

Elevation: 3230m to 2340m
8.5 hours

Elated from our day at the ABC, the walk back today was carefree and leisurely. We were in good spirits. So much so that we didn't notice how slow we were going. The hike back to Chhomrong was longer than before even though we going down hill.

Double rainbow!

We never want to see stairs again.

Day 9: Chhomrong to Landruk

Elevation: 2340 to 1565
4.5 hours

We took a different route back to Pokhara in order to end in the town of Phedi. It was great to experience new scenery as we walked along the river today. And most of it was down hill!

We finally got to appreciate the views from Chhromrong on our return.

The Jinhu hot springs

The town of New Bridge. By far the scariest bridge crossing of our trek and the most misleading town name ever.

Our view of Annapurna South from Landruk

Day 10: Landruk to Pothana

Elevations: 1565 to 1900
3 hours

A casual day with a bit of steep climb up to the town Pothana (most of the stairs came at the end thankfully). Once we arrived to Pothana, Bishnu found us a hidden guesthouse with the best views of mountains in the whole town. It was a nice bookend for an amazing experience.

Some of trails are being destroyed to accommodate car traffic from the increase in tourism.

This is what a trail should look like

View from our guesthouse in Pothana.

Day 11: Pothana to Phedi

Elevation: 1900 to 1100
2 hours

We could have made it all the way to Phedi yesterday but we were enjoying a leisurely pace on the way back. Today involved a quick descent down to Phedi with some steep stairs at the very end. We did not envy those who started the trek from this end and cringed when already these exhausted trekkers asked us how many stairs were left on their way up. How many stairs left? All of them.

It was hard to say goodbye that morning.

and focusing on the ground was impossible.

Don't let these cute kids fool you. Six times during our hike they would form a human wall and block our path until we gave them money. To avoid paying we had to tickle our way through the garrison.

Once we got back to Pokhara we had one final stop to see an unusual underground waterfall called Devi's Fall.

A tributary from Phewa Lake flows out to a massive cave.

View from inside of the cave.

Dal Baht. A meal Nepalis eat twice a day, every day. We also had it almost every day on our trek but the quality of the food at the guesthouses was passable at best. Bishnu took us to his favorite spot in Pokhara for a proper preparation of the dish. Ahh, civilization.

Day 12, 13, 14: Pokhara

Elevation: 900

We spent the next three days unwinding and resting our knees in Pokhara. We had some celebratory beers with Bishnu on the last day of our trek but he couldn't stick around for long. He was taking the night bus back to Kathmandu the same day to get back to work. After spending 10 days hanging out and learning about Nepali culture, politics, and religion it was hard to abruptly say goodbye. We become good friends and travel buddies along the way. Bishnu invited us to come visit him and family in his village near Kathmandu but we didn't any time left on our visa. I guess that means we might have to make another trip to Nepal.