Central Vietnam

Central Vietnam: Keeping it Real

Kilometers Traveled: 18,119 

Countries Visited: 7

Cities Visited: 19

Hours spent on a bus in Vietnam: 22

After 8 sleepless hours on a overnight sleeper bus we arrived at our first stop in Central Vietnam - Hoi An. We stayed only eight days in what ended being our favorite section of Vietnam. This region has a noticeably different atmosphere from its southern neighbors. A few centuries ago this area was the cultural and economic center of the country. This is where you can find ancient imperial cities, colonial towns, ruins and charming villages in the misty central highlands. The Center was also one of the few places that felt authentically Asian during our travels in this part of the world. So far our experiences in Asia have been railed in an alternate universe dubbed the "banana pancake" trail. A well trodden backpacker path that has been standardized, sanitized and pasteurized to appeal to our less adventurous spirit. Our favorite experiences have come when we have been able to break free of Pancake and travel like a temporary local.

Hội An

During the 17th century Hội An was once the mighty trading center of various Vietnamese dynasties. This place tastefully wears its French, Japanese, and Chinese influences in its charming town center - a very walkable place where meandering tourists and laid back locals coexist in harmony. And if you need a cheap and decently tailored suit or dress - this is the place to get it. Shopping is the thing to do here, there are hundreds of artisan and apparel shops everywhere you turn. We ending up exploring the islands, relaxing on the beach and relentlessly seeking out the local cuisine.

Thanks for not selling out Hội An.

This lady made me realize how weak of a kayaker I am.

The Japanese Bridge. Connecting the old town to the Japanese district. Its also a good example of how enchanting Hoi An is at night. Make sure to grab dinner at one of the street vendors along the river's edge.

A ferry ride to Cam Kim island. We were the only tourists on the boat.

Still not sure how I managed to drop my bike in the ditch.

Fishing boats at Ang Bang beach. 

The Marble Mountains and the storm we got caught in while riding up on a scooter. The Marble Mountains are a few miles north of Hoi An on the way to Danang - Central Vietnam's largest city

We stopped by a local shop to park and buy these sweet ponchos. They let us park for free as long as we bought a massive marble sculpture. Jim and Diane - a 400 pound dragon statue is en route to the Broadbent residence. Hope that's ok.

The largest cave in the hollow Marble Mountains. They were used the by the Vietnamese army to hide a hospital during the war. If you're an evil villain and can't find a hollowed out volcano for your lair, this is a perfect alternative.

The Tra Que herb village. Vietnam oldest organic farm cooperative. These same families have been tending these gardens for over 500 years.

More cooking classes at the Baby Mustard restaurant at the Tra Que gardens. We now can make a mean banh xeo.

Central Vietnam - Easy Riders

The two major sightseeing stops on a trip to Central Vietnam usually include Hoi An and Hue (the ancient capitol of Vietnam). Being completely fed up with buses, we decided to try something more unconventional to get up to Hue. There are a few companies of local tour guides that will take you between these two cities on a motorcycle. They are called the Easy Riders and they serve as a local tour guide/driver/host as they take you through some of Vietnam's most beautiful regions in the central highlands - including the famous Ho Chi Minh trail. We went with a company called the Hue Easy Riders run by the amazing Mr. Tu and his very entertaining team. By the end we discovered that the best way to see Vietnam is by motorcycle. The roads are well maintained, the scenery will leave you speechless and the locals will warm your heart. 

Tip: If you don't eat insects, try to keep your mouth closed while watching any jaw dropping scenery on a motorcycle. 

Mr. Tu - our fearless and hilarious leader.

Learning to make rice paper from scratch.

On a river ferry with our motley crew: Monkey, Buffalo and Lady Boy. These guys were non stop ball busters. It felt like we had been friends for years.

We spent the night in a tiny little mountain town of Prao. This town had about dozen buildings and it seems that a quarter of them were dedicated to impressive karaoke operations; with a high end audio equipment and big screen LCDs. The problem was that the only songs in English were "Feliz Navidad" and "We Wish you a Merry Christmas".  We had to quickly catch up on some Vietnamese pop.

The next day we visited a Van Kieu village, one of Vietnam's many ethnic minorities. Mr. Tu is showing us that many of the villagers have opted to stay in their traditional houses leaving many of government built and subsidized homes empty.

We handed out a few sweets to local children. Cuteness overload.

After spending some time riding up the Ho Chi Minh trail we moved east towards a gorgeous stretch of road along the coast. We caught a few glimpses before the weather turned dreary.

US Military bunker at Hai Van pass.

Our last few miles with the Easy Riders and Lou, our awesome riding buddy from Scotland.

Buffalo had too much happywater last night.

Hue

We got to Hue tired and dirty from our two days of riding but we were able to muster enough energy to see the famous citadel and a temple as soon as we arrived. The Easy Riders took us around town then dropped us off at our hotel where we got some much needed sleep. The next day we had a torrential downpour and were confined to our room. I also got the flu as the weather turned so we didn't get to see much of Hue.

The Citadel. Former residence of the Nguyen dynasty and like a mini Forbidden City. The Chinese influence in this part of country is a lot more pronounced.

Thien Mu Pagoda. Overlooks the the Perfume river.

Food Again...

Central Vietnam's food is heavily influence by the Imperial cuisine. The story goes that imperial chefs were constantly creating new dishes for the picky tastes of their emperors. 

1. Cau Lao - Hoi An specialty with a Japanese influence. Soba noodles, sliced pork, croutons, mint, bean sprouts, chili and sauce rather than a broth. More of a snack than a full meal.
2. Bun Cha Ca - Rice noodle soup with fish meat balls.
3. Cau Lao with a twist - our version includes tomatoes in the sauce. Makes it a little more filling.
4. Banh Uot - Rice noodle sheets, rotisserie pork and herb salad. My favorite dish and Janelle's least favorite
5. Ban Le Well - A Hoi An restaurant with a fixed menu that includes banh khoai (rice pancakes), grilled pork skewers, herb salad, and egg rolls that are all wrapped in rice paper then dipped in chili sauce. I dare you to eat the whole thing
6. Bun Bo Hue (not picured) - A rice noodle beef soup like Pho but the predominant flavor is lemongrass.
7. Mi Quang (not pictured) - Rice noodles with tumeric, cilantro, chili and pork. Served with rice crackers and a little bit of beef broth. A common lunch time dish.